Tag Archives: Cape Wrath Trail

Days Like This, No 17: Sleeping Giants of Assynt

CONIVAL and Ben More Assynt are mountains with majesty. I read an article a long time ago about these northern giants glimpsed in the rays of the setting sun, and the quartzite stones on their summits glowing golden in the … Continue reading

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What Does Adventure Mean to You?

DO you work in a factory, an office, a shop, or drive a company van? Are you a member of parliament, unemployed, a doctor, a refuse collector, a teacher or the chief executive officer of a multi-national corporation? Maybe you … Continue reading

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Madeira: So Let Me Get Right to the Point . . .

A clifftop path through some of the most spectacular coastal scenery in the world . . . Continue reading

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The Quest for Breakfast Above Loch Lochy

ON the crest of a wet and desolate Cam Bealach, as rain streams in from the north, a desperate man wanders through the mire . . . Continue reading

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Martindale Fells and the Three-Legged Pig of Prague

YOU think you know your parents. You presume that, after a lifetime of familiarity and togetherness, their lives, their characters and their pasts are so utterly immovable and unchangeable that they might as well be cast in stone. Then one … Continue reading

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Cape Wrath – the Edge of the World

THE roar of waves pounding ancient cliffs echoes from somewhere far below. Before me, the blue Atlantic stretches to distant rocks where only seabirds venture, lands where glaciers grind to the sea, and ice floes where polar bears wander. This … Continue reading

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The Half-Naked Man (Bearnais Bothy to Achnashellac)

A HALF-NAKED man stands on the banks of the River Carron with a pack on his back, gazing forlornly across the water towards the first main road he has seen in three days. Travellers on the A890, their attention arrested … Continue reading

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A Night on the Cluanie Ridge

“TAKE CARE. You are entering remote, sparsely-populated, potentially dangerous mountain country.”

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Strathchailleach Bothy – And the Spade Behind the Door

SO much for Sandwood Bay and the ghosts. So much for Scottish weather. Last night I spent a half hour walking along the sand while a thin drizzle leached off the Atlantic, and another half hour crouching under an overhanging … Continue reading

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Hail Storm Behind Conival

A HAIL storm rolls along the flank of Beinn Uidhe – a white curtain sweeping down the glen, engulfing everything in its path. Soon, within a matter of minutes, I’ll be alone in a completely white world – in the middle … Continue reading

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The Descent of Man (A Fire in Glen Elchaig)

IN Glen Elchaig I trudge west along a rough road to a stone bridge over a stream that I’ve pinpointed on the map as a potential place to camp. This is called forward planning – a concept I am not … Continue reading

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A Faithful Heart (Another Country – Part 3)

JOHN PRESCOTT is still the main topic of conversation at breakfast. The outrage is tangible. Meanwhile, after enjoying a second bath to discourage any remaining deer ticks (I find another behind my right knee), I strike up a conversation with the … Continue reading

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